TODI
Todi, a chic and beautiful medieval hilltown with a magnificent central piazza surrounded by Gothic towers, is 15 minutes from Montecastello by car.
Church of Santa Maria della Consolazione, just outside the city, may have been designed by Bramante or Antonio da Sangallo: it's a beautiful renaissance construction of the 16C based on a sphere and a cube.
Convento di Montesanto, in the oldest part of Todi. There is an ancient linden tree that was planted (some say) in the 14C by San Bernardino. St. Jacopone, the medieval poet was born in Todi. The Etruscan bronze Mars of Todi, now in the Vatican Museum, was found there.
Church of San Fortunato, on the highest part of Todi, has a small fresco by Masolino. But much more interesting are the relief sculptures around the main doorway: Jacopo della Quercia worked here. Built in the 13-15C.
Etruscan arch - The center of the city was first built by the Umbrians, then Etruscans, then Romans, and later expanded in the medieval and Gothic periods.
Piazza del Popolo (Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II) - One of the most perfect medieval piazzas in Italy, built 1213. Originally, like many piazzas in Italy, it was the Roman forum.
Palazzo dei Priori - a beautiful 14C building with a trapezoidal tower, facing the Duomo in the piazza.
Palazzo del Capitano - Palazzo del Popolo - Pinacoteca - Palazzi Comunali, Piazza del Popolo, 075 8956216. 10.30-13, 14-18.30. On the upper floors, the history of the town and its environs: prehistoric, protohistoric, Umbrian, Etruscan and Roman, coins, textiles, ceramics; paintings: Giovanni di Pietro (Lo Spagna), and the Sala del Consiglio Generale and Sala del Capitano del Popolo, entirely frescoed during the 17-18 C.
For a preview of Todi, see "The Agony and the Ecstasy" starring Charlton Heston and Rex Harrison, 1965. The Rome shots are actually shot in Todi. Todi has many good restaurants (try the tagliatelle al tartufo at Ristorante Umbria in the piazza, tel. 075 8942737, or Sunday brunch by the pool at the Fattoria di Vibio in Doglio, tel. 075 8749607, or fresh fish at Ristorante Sebeto, tel. 075 8944400, or the homemade pasta al forno and local meat at Trattoria Pisello on the road to Orvieto, tel. 0744 958242, to name just a few). There is a theatre, an abstract art gallery (Extra Moenia Arte Contemporanea, Piazza Garibaldi Tel. 075 8944867), and many antique shops and food stores. At the Saturday morning market just outside of town, merchants sell clothes, shoes, housewares and produce. At Lo Studiolo bookstore, near the Etruscan arch, you can buy art books and antiques. Up the street is Pianegiani's, with some of the best gelato in Umbria (if you don't believe us, try the all others and see). The Todi Arte Festival, July 12-27 brings together musicians and artists from all over the world. And don't miss the Italian International Hot Air Balloon Grand Prix – 13 – 27 July.
For the ultimate people-watching experience, sit outside the Gran Caffè Duomo in the piazza. All important business takes place in the piazza. Men stroll around together in clumps, flicking cigarettes, adjusting their sleeves and sunglasses, discussing sports and politics, and talking on "telefonini". Boys in cars and mopeds cruise by slowly, stopping in the middle of the street to flirt with girls or chat.